Touring Chautauqua County NY – A Treasury of History and Luxury in Local B&B’s
By Ruth Seebeck
Some 142 years after the Discovery landed near Jamestown VA, French officer, Celeron de Bienville (aka de Blainville), led an expedition from Montreal, across Lake Erie to the mouth of Chautauqua Creek. A scout for explorer, de Champlain, had discovered the creek in 1615. Celeron’s goal in 1749 was to strengthen France’s claim to the vast Ohio River valley.
The French knew that a portage route between Erie and Chautauqua lakes, a distance of less than five miles, would connect with the Allegheny and Ohio Rivers. French soldiers widened the original Indian trail in 1753. It is still known as French Portage Road. The Seven Years’ War, known as the French and Indian War in the colonies, ended France’s influence in the Americas. It was almost 50 years after Celeron’s expedition before Americans moved into the area.
Pennsylvanians settled in present-day Westfield, NY in 1802. Landmark Acres, an 1802 two-story barn, is the oldest building in Chautauqua County. It has been a quality antique shop in Westfield since 1946. The barn houses a variety of antiques, art, and collectibles.
New York created the county of Chautauqua in 1808. The unique Bemis/Stowe ferry service began in 1811. It still operates for cars and passengers. Settlers planted the first grapes in 1818, not knowing the area would become one of the premier grape-growing regions of the country.
In Mayville, the farmhouse, now known as Great Tree Country Inn & Stables (c. 1820), was built. Guests enjoy luxury accommodations in a historic country estate setting. Seven themed guest rooms have all-season fireplaces, king or queen beds and modern amenities. Public areas include three living rooms with cozy fireplaces. Great Tree is open year-round and offers a dinner package fall-through-spring. The fully equipped Stables are also original and provide boarding services for guests’ horses. The resident menagerie also lives at the stables, delighting most guests.
The first steamboat on the lake was built in 1827 and the first profitable grape harvest occurred three years later. Then, just east of Westfield, Brick House Bed & Breakfast (c. 1840) was built on what is now Route 20. The former Gothic Revival-style residence offers guests a choice of five plush rooms with modern amenities and private baths. Guests also enjoy a sumptuous breakfast buffet.
About the same time (1837) the William Seward Inn was built on Portage Road (Rt. 394) between Mayville and Westfield. It was once the home of the New York governor, and US Secretary of State during the Lincoln/Jackson administrations. William Seward negotiated the purchase of Alaska, known as ‘Seward’s Folly’. The 12-room inn offers guests an authentic atmosphere, comfortable rooms and gourmet meals.
James Hinkley, a local attorney, built the Candlelight Lodge in downtown Westfield. This 1851 Victorian home is conveniently located on Route 20. The Candlelight became a public lodge in 1920, and is New York’s oldest single-owned Country Inn. The Candlelight has seven luxury suites with queen-size beds. The adjoining Captain Storm House was moved from its original location to the Candlelight property. The Queen Anne revival home (c. 1892) has four rooms. This pair of beautiful brick buildings creates a stately country estate atmosphere in downtown Westfield.
In nearby Mayville, NY is the Plumbush B&B. The Cornell family built this home in 1865 at the end of the Civil War. Vintage accommodations include six themed rooms with private baths. A cousin founded nearby Cornell University. Plumbush is less than a mile from Chautauqua Institute and is convenient to all the usual amenities in the area.
Beside Andraccio’s on Route 394 is The Brasted House B&B, an 1860’s home built by the Hunt family. This handicap-accessible, non-smoking inn specializes in literature and art weekends for guests. Guest rooms are quiet and authentic, with antiques and quilts. Telephone and television are only in the public rooms. Meals and coffees are primarily organic.
In 1871, the Methodist Association held a camp meeting on Lake Chautauqua at a place called Fair Point. Three years later, the concept of Chautauqua was born. Meetings were held at the point because attendees usually came by steamboat. As interest and attendance grew, the event spread across the shoreline and up a nearby hill. When rail service became available, an entrance was built at the trolley stop, now the main gate at Chautauqua. Resident stayed first in tents, and then built cottages. In 1881 the historic Athenaeum Hotel was in operation.
Additional accommodations at the Institute include guesthouses, inns, boarding houses, cabins and private rentals. Most date from the heyday of Chautauqua. Many are only open for the ’season’ from late June to mid-August.
About the same time four hotels were built in Bemis Point, Chautauqua’s ‘other’ resort. One of those, the Hotel Lenhart (c. 1882), is still in operation. The Lenhart and the Athenaeum offer authentic accommodations in an 1890’s atmosphere.
The Welch Corporation moved to the county in 1897. The Jamestown, Chautauqua & Lake Erie Railroad started converting trolley lines around the lake to electric in 1903. The Spencer Hotel, a bed-and-breakfast style inn, was built at the Institute in 1908. Rooms feature literary themes and hand-painted mural walls. The Spencer is celebrating its centennial this year with specially themed packages.
For accommodations directly on the lake, check out the Maple Springs Lakeside Inn near Bemis Point. This 1925 Dutch Colonial has a private beach and seven guest rooms. It was built as a private home, known as Katankwat, by a Pittsburgh industrialist. He invented the process of coloring ceramic tile – which you can still see in the bathrooms. At one time, trolley service ran directly in front of the mansion. The Lakeside Inn, a former Methodist retreat, has been a B&B since 1988.
You don’t have to travel far to enjoy a wonderful weekend or mini-vacation. There are dozens of accommodation choices in your area – everything from camping to luxe hotels. But for a historic experience, plush accommodations and unmatched individual attention, make you next reservation at a Bed and Breakfast.
Thanks for sharing our travels. We’re delighted you came along. For more travel information or to sign up for our free travel-zine, go to http://www.touringwithus.com We’d also love to hear your travel stories. Write to us at edandruth@touringwithus.com Let us know about your favorite places – or someplace you’d like us to explore for you. We’d also like to encourage you to add more mini vacations in your life. That way, there’s always something to look forward to – just around the corner. Good travels!
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